The tools I use to create furniture are simple but effective. Many are self-built or modified machines well-suited to carry out the demands of proper construction. I utilize many traditional forms of joinery in constructing furniture, with the advantage of modern machines' accuracy and also the hand skills to fine tune each connection. Certain connections like the dovetailed drawer, or an apron's mortise & tenon to the leg, are common to the craft. It is the accuracy at which mating parts fit together that determines the longevity of a wood joint. Every connection must fit properly prior to gluing, which can be achieved using machines, but sometimes requires hand work, a step often skipped. With patience and skill I build each piece of furniture so that it may be enjoyed by those yet to come.
Hand Planes
Of the many hand planes for sale, you'll pay top dollar to get one as good as you can make from wood. While quality cast iron is heavier and stays flat over seasonal changes, a well tuned wooden handplane is the most sensitive instrument in the shop. Its lighter weight and personalized shape fit comfortably in the hands, allowing you the versatility to push or pull each stroke.
A wooden plane can be constructed to suit specific work, perhaps with a steep bed angle for stubborn grain or a curved bottom for concave shapes, as pictured here. A variety of woods are suitable for the body, especially those known to react little with humidity. A good plane will stay reasonably flat, have proper adjustability of the iron, and feel true to the hands.
Knives and Chisels
Preparing joinery often calls for specialty cutters to clean up tight corners or reach difficult areas in which other tools won't fit. I have modified the shapes of several knives and chisels to accomplish these specific tasks.
The quality of steel in edge tools is important but subjective. Both Western and Japanese blades have their merits, however Japanese metallurgy utilizes a layer of extremely hard steel at the cutting edge which I find holds up longer in most tasks. Western made steels are typically faster wearing but more forgiving to sharpen.
Vintage Tools
There exists a world of older machines that are still in their prime after 40 or 50 years of use. The saying "they don't make them like they used to" is mostly true, since these tools remain solid and reliable, able to produce consistent cuts time and again. When precious materials are at stake, I am relieved that my machines are capable of the highest performance.
I built this rabbet plane based on a Lie-Nielson design which used a wedge system to hold the iron in place. Instead, this one has a cam type hold-down which allows easy adjustment. The body is cast bronze, housing a custom iron made by Ron Hock, in Fort Bragg, CA.
Sharpening Tools
These days, power sanders and routers have largely replaced the tools our fore bearers used, such as hand planes, chisels, spoke-shaves, etc. Sharpening the steel of traditional tools is something fewer and fewer craftspeople undertake. The reasons stem from a lack of education and also the rise in tool markets that constantly push 'new and better' tools, none of which requires this skill. Modern woodworkers often claim that sharpening is a waste of time, never having experienced the benefits or results. Abrasive technologies have taken the worry out of shaping wood by eliminating the threat of tear-out so commonly associated with edge tools. The clear difference between cutting and sanding is apparent in the surface quality produced in the end. Sandpaper is made of rocks, producing details that are undefined, maybe even monotonous. Wood that has been cut or shaved by a sharp iron articulates crisp details. All in all, traditional hand tools offer a craftsman control and finesse in bringing creations to life.
Until learning how to sharpen well, I struggled with hand tools, not trusting them. It seems there's nothing worse than gouging the grain of an almost finished part because a blade was not sharp. This becomes less of a concern when edge tools are maintained, even on stubborn grain. After machining parts to size, the mill marks are easily erased by handplaning with minimal loss in dimension, leaving a surface that is polished and ready for finish. In this way, the steps of sanding through grits are eliminated and the results superior. Some situations, however, may call for light sanding if a planed surface is not flawless. I will use sandpaper not for shaping, but for smoothing an already shaped surface. Another benefit of learning to work in this method is that the shop environment stays cleaner and healthier.
site info
© 2005-2006 Based on a design by Andreas Viklund.
Copyright 2007, Brek Jacobson. All rights reserved. All images and designs on this Web site are for public viewing only and are protected under United States and International copyright laws. No reproduction rights are granted, licensed or sanctioned in any form or manner and are hereby exclusively reserved by Brek Jacobson.